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The PWC Newsletter is available on the website (to members only) a week before our monthly meetings. The newsletter has details of the speaker/activity at the next meeting as well as of forthcoming activities. There are adverts and useful bits of news and information about special dates in the Norwegian calendar. Members' contributions range from articles about holidays in Norway to recipes.
(Members will be given their username and password once their annual subscription has been recorded. Use Acrobat Reader to view the newsletter file)
Highlights from past newsletters:
Super sleigh-ride in Sørkedalen (March 2009)
Cross Country Skiing on the Peer Gynt Tour (April 2008)
NAF Winter driving course (Dec 07/Jan 08)
Norwegian Life (September 2007)
Driving to Bergen (Summer 2007)
A small bite of Norway (September 2006)
What not to wear - in Winter (November 2005)
What can you do in Oslo this Spring/Summer? (Summer 2005)
Polar Bear Trip (March 2005)
Quick Cross Country Ski Wax Tips (February 2005)
Trip to the Ice Hotel (February 2004)
Sleigh Ride in Sylling (February 2004)
Jingle Bells Experience (December 2003)
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'Super Sleigh-ride in Sørkedalen' by Judy Phillips
For some local colour and a birthday treat, we and our visitors went for a sleigh-ride during the vinterferie. We drove to Elveli riding centre (hestersportsenter), which is in Sørkedalen itself, past Bogstad lake, only a 20 minute drive north of the city.
It was a fantastic trip. The deep snow this year has made this a real treat. We arrived at dusk, and parked up just outside the stables, to be greeted by the sound of bells, and the smell of horses! The horse-drawn sleigh has fur rugs to sit on and warm blankets in which to snuggle up during the trip. We were given flaming torches to hold as we were taken into the forest – the only sound came from the horse’s sleigh bells. It made you realise where the word horse-power comes from – one horse can pull a solid wooden sleigh and seven adults, and still go at a gallop. We saw some elg amongst the trees; although they were a bit timid, and rushed off faster than we could go - so you have to be quick on the uptake, and with the camera! Our trip finished at a blazing bonfire, where we were given hot drinks of Solbær glug next to the roaring fire. There we toasted marshmallows and baked some bananas in the embers (you can bring what you prefer). All in all, it was an unforgettable experience of Norway in winter.,. -
For more details see the elveli website: www.elveli.no or contact :
Jenny Dahlin, Elveli Gård, Sørkedalen (her English is very good!)
NO +47
902 501 29, e-mail:
opplevelser@elveli.no
Map reference, Oslo Kartboka (Cappelens kart 70) p. 14, 5 EF (see Elveli and little horse riding symbol)
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Cross Country Skiing on the Peer Gynt Tour by Angie Canning
I have just returned from a
wonderful cross country skiing trip that I would like to recommend. I have just
skied 100 km on the Peer Gynt Løype which winds it way through some spectacular
scenery on the high ground between Espedalen and Gudbrandsdalen in the area
north of Lillehammer.The group toured on ski tracks from hotel to hotel whilst
our luggage was transported by road to await us. As luck would have it they had
the best snow conditions at this time of year for 30 years and for those of you
who are familiar with cross country skiing – every day was a Blue Extra day!
I travelled with a British company called Nordic Challenge (www.nordicchallenge.com).
They run a series of winter holidays and activity courses in Norway each year. I
was with a group of friends who flew out from UK and I met them at Gardemoen to
be driven to our start
point at Dalseter in Espedalen. On the first day we found our ski legs and did a
bit of training then on day 2 we began our tour. We skied in snowy weather
around 18 km along undulating tracks and a 3 km gentle downhill track to Fefor
which was a lovely hotel sitting up above the lake where Captain Scott trialled
his equipment before setting off on his quest to the Antarctic.
The following morning the weather was much improved and we began our tour by skiing right across the lake which we were assured had about 60cm of ice over it! It was quite a spooky feeling but amazing to be right in the middle of it looking back at the hotel. We then skied through beautiful forests with snow laden trees to the ski area of Gålå which is a cross country and downhill skiing resort. (In fact this is where Nordic Challenge bases their ‘skills’ courses). We ended with a long but very scenic route up to Wadahl Hogfjellshotel which was very welcoming and had rooms with panoramic views over the ski area and to the mountains of Jotenheimen.
That evening we had great fun tobogganing on a blue run with a button lift which pulls you up to the top again. Whilst hysterically laughing, my friend and I shot down a half pipe and ‘got air’ as we flew off the lip at the end!
Thursday was a stunning Norwegian day and we cracked 26 km and two peaks on the way to Lauvåsen Fjellstue which was in the true ski lodge style where we self catered for the night. We also went on an evening ski up to a peak where we had a 360º view of the Jotenheim and Rondane mountains – it was unbelievably beautiful.
Next day we returned to Wadahl and traded in our ‘classic’ skis for ‘skating’ skis. We then spent the last day and a half learning how to skate. This culminated with a biathlon challenge after instruction from two delightful Norwegians on how to throw yourself down onto a mat, insert the cartridge and try to fire at 5 targets 50 metres away having just skied round a 200 metre track. I don’t think that Bjorndalen has anything to worry about from me!
We were a group of 6 like-minded friends on our tour but could equally have been families or a mixture of individuals. We had a tour leader who is a qualified ski instructor, excellent at looking after the group and coaching/instructing/encouraging us on the way around the tour.
I finished the
week feeling that I had been on a wonderful journey in the wilderness of Norway
during which time my technique had improved
immensely and I had thoroughly enjoyed myself. The great thing is that you can
eat like a horse with no guilt because you burn off so many calories – my
trousers are looser this week!
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NAF Winter
Driving Course by Angela Grundy
One rather cold morning towards the end of November, seven
intrepid divers set off from Oslo to take the Norwegian Automobile Federation (NAF)
winter driving course. What had begun as a good idea several weeks earlier at
the Tuesday PWC meeting, was now becoming a reality, and pretty daunting it was
too! “What if I panic? What if I crash the car? No, come on, just carry on
driving and it’ll be fine. What if……Oh no what’s this? Why is this policeman
beckoning me over? Doesn’t he know I’m going to learn how to drive this car
properly at last? Just blow into the little plastic tube…..I hope I’m not over
the limit! That would be just too ironic – not allowed to do the course because
of too much alcohol…..”
The NAF facility turned out to be a hut in the middle of nowhere, surrounded by
trees which conceal two specially constructed extremely slippery “roads” and a
tricky slippery bend. Luckily all the slippery bits are surrounded by gravel
traps to catch cars as they inexorably slither off the road. They are very
effective….I know because I slid into all of them at one stage or another. There
was no one in sight but this elderly man in overalls.
I parked the car and let myself into the hut. Yes, this was the right place: a
classroom, a toilet, some coffee cups and strong black coffee. The elderly man
turned out to be the instructor together with his equally elderly colleague.
These two had seen it all, believe you me!! I knew at once that no matter how
bad I was at this, nothing I could do would surprise them.
After careful and patient explanations as to what we had to do, we were let out
to have a go. I felt a real reluctance to get into the car, but I couldn’t
chicken out now. Besides, the others were all getting into their cars, so there
was nothing else for it….Start the engine…..into gear….down the hill….and hit
the brakes NOW, HARD!!! Aaaarrrgh! Help! Will I ever stop? Finally I stop. “How
many meters was that?” asks the instructor, walking over to me. I’m too stunned
to reply. “O.K.” he says, “That was great. Now do it again, twice as fast this
time and keeping the car in a straight line” Again and again I try. I’m getting
used to sliding. I’m even getting the car under control. Actually this is quite
fun. In fact, I’m really beginning to enjoy this!
We go inside for some evaluation and tips, then back out again to try our skills
at completing a slalom course while sliding, and trying to avoid some rubber
cut-out “people” who had an inconvenient habit of rushing out into the road into
the path of our skidding vehicles. Not squashing the first set of rubber people
was easy, but the second set suffered repeatedly at my hands….very nasty!!
Four hours of this and I was exhausted. Exhausted but pleased with myself. It had been a really worthwhile experience and I had learned so much, not least of which is that speed makes the whole thing so much more difficult. To cut a long story short, I’ll be watching how fast I go from now on, particularly when I think of that second set of rubber people!!!
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Norwegian Life – some happy tips for new arrivals!
by Chris Bulman (A British Perspective)
1. When asked if you speak Norwegian say with
confidence ‘Yah yah!’ and Tusen Takk and then speak English as everyone
speaks it fluently unless they’re under 9.
2. Espouse the wonderful qualities of brown cheese trying to ignore the piece that has been stuck to the roof of your mouth for the last 24 hours.
3. Take to the great outdoors at every opportunity despite the weather and look confused when everybody else says the weather is too miserable to go out.
4. At the first sign of sun, run outside strip off your clothes and let your skin soak up the UV. This is really only for those with skin that turns golden brown at the first hint of a few rays which rules out anyone not Scandinavian.
5.
Take up a variety of strenuous sporting activities including on road skiing,
running and mountain hiking even if you are 80, age is no excuse, and the oldies
will be the ones ahead of you on the slopes.
6. When you go out with your mates, get completely drunk before you go out thus preventing the need to take out a mortgage to buy a round of drinks for anyone.
7. Be prepared to ask for a tin of Sod and Bog at the supermarket without giggling stupidly.
8. Bring several small, white- blonde children with you (if you have read the Midwitch Cuckoos this may unnerve you slightly), dress them in lots of sensible quilted suits, fancy wellies and layers of reflective clothing to keep them warm, dry and safe from the underside of Hummers, large Volvos and 4 by 4s.
9. Save for the next year so you can afford to go out for a meal in one of the many lovely restaurants in Oslo even if it is only to Peppe’s Pizza.
10.
Don’t forget to drive on the right hand side of the road and on no account
signal at roundabouts in order to keep your fellow road users guessing your
journey plans. Ignore any speed restrictions as there is only one policeman in
Oslo and so your chances of being caught are quite small.
11. Oh and if you are a teenager wear cool casuals and roam around in packs, much like at home really!
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Driving to Bergen by Angie Canning
Routes we have tried – all to be recommended in terms of scenery.
Both times we
have started the journey by driving to Hønefoss on E16 and then going left at
the rusty steel roundabout onto Route 7 to Gol and then on towards Geilo. 
Option 1 Just before Geilo turn right onto Route 50 which takes you over some wonderful wild landscape through valleys and past scattered lakes with many hytte settlements. Then you drop down a very steep hairpin bendy road with some stunning views and end up by Aurlandsfjord (passing the end of the big tunnel through to the E16). You then pass Flåm and Gudvangen (of Norway in a Nutshell fame). You can take a short detour up to Stalheimsfossen and Sivlefossen waterfalls which is signposted off the main road and worth a look.
The road continues on to Voss (less than remarkable town in my view) and then on to Bergen through many road tunnels which is a bit of a shame. The road from Voss to Bergen is quite busy and if you get behind something you have to resign yourself to a slow journey as it does not lend itself to overtaking. We followed a military convoy along it once and it was agony!
Option 2 Stay on Route 7 through Geilo and up onto the edge of the Hardangervidda. Once again this is a wild and remote landscape – like being on another planet. There is a lovely view of the Hardanger glacier on your right hand side during this part of the journey and plenty of lakes and tumbling mountain streams. As you drop off the plateau it is definitely worth stopping to see Voringfossen which plunges into a very deep valley quite spectacularly. Keep on this route until you have to cross the fjord at Brimnes to rejoin Route 7 and 13 through a tunnel. We stayed on Route 7 and followed the very edge of the fjord until Øystese where we stopped for a look (and got behind) another waterfall before cutting across land to rejoin the E16 into Bergen.
Last time we drove back we drove
north up the E39 from Bergen crossing by ferry to the north coast of Sognefjord.
We followed the E39 which clings to the north coast affording good views of the
fjord (weather permitting). At Vadheim we joined Route 55 and continued on to
Balestrand where many tourists stop off from the fast ferry to Bergen. There is
a beautifully carved tiny English church here but not much else. Carry on along
the edge to another short ferry crossing continuing on Route 55 to the town of
Sogndalsfjord where you join Route 5. One last ferry crossing gets you back to
the south side of the fjord and you follow Route 5 until it joins the E16 again.
We then turned right onto Route 52 through Mørkedalen and past Hemsedal back to Gol and onto Route 7 towards Oslo.
I would recommend any of these route suggestions as the scenery along each of them just wonderful and worth seeing. The return journey along the north edge of Sognefjord took much longer to drive but was in fact only marginally further in kilometres. All the ferries we took were running at regular intervals so we never had to wait long.
Enjoy!!!
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A small bite of Norway
We set off bright and early
(9am) knowing we had a bit of a drive ahead of us as we planned to camp at Odda,
at the head of Sørfjorden (a branch off Hardangerfjord). It turned out to be
about 220 miles which we took at a leisurely pace – as you have to in Norway.
We were erecting our trailer tent by 4pm on a pretty idyllic plot by the bright
green waters of Sandvin Lake. Campsite facilities basic but perfectly
acceptable.
On the way along the E134 we had passed Heddal Stave Kirke (largest Stave kirke in Norway) and some pretty spectacular scenery that even the young had to admit was worth looking at! Haukeligrend, at the junction with Setesdalen, looks like a frontier outpost with lots of stalls set out selling elk skins, hunting kit, and general tourist stuff. After Haukeli we drove up and cross the south west corner of the Hardangervidda which is a wild barren place above the tree line and quite spectacular in a different way. Several tunnels (one of which is 4 miles long) later you drop down towards Røldal at the head of another serene lake and then head north to Odda.
Before we left home we contacted the number in the Hardanger brochure and spoke with Bjorn Buer who is a professional guide with the Hardanger Breføring. He lives in the farm that sits in the middle of the valley just below the end of the Buer arm of the Folgefonn glacer. We agreed to meet him at his house at 10am on Monday to kit up and go on the 6-8 hour hike up to and on to the glacier. You need good walking boots, warm and wet weather gear, plenty of sandwiches and room in your rucksack for ice pick, crampons and harness! We walked 2 hours up to the edge of the ice, often right beside the tumbling torrent of melt water and over pretty rough ground. Once at the ice we got our kit on and he roped us together and gave us some basic instructions. On the ice it was fascinating but shocking. On the one hand there are wonderful crevasses and ice formations, the sound of tumbling water and the stunning luminescence in parts of the ice. On the other hand there is a scum of black residue which is the result of pollution in the rain and snow that falls. The ice acts as a filter and leaves the dirt on top, mostly carbon – we got filthy and it was a reminder of just what we have been doing to our environment.
The following day, aching all over from our hike, we drove back over to Haukeli and dropped down the Setesdal valley to visit TrollAktiv at Evje for some white water rafting. The drive down the valley is, once again, beautiful, following the river Otra as it widens and narrows along the way. We camped at Neset Camping, another perfectly situated site on a promontory by the lake at Byglandsfjord. Immaculate facilities, stunning views and bouncy floating diving platform in the water! We booked two sessions over the next couple of days at TrollAcktiv (which also has hytte accommodation and room for camping), white water rafting and river boarding, both of which were excellent fun, led by enthusiastic and pleasant guides from an international background, all able to speak good English (our son is one of them!)
From there, tired but relaxed, we drove the ridiculously slow, 4.5 hour journey back to Oslo on the E18 feeling that we had seen and done a bit of Norway in our 6 day tour.
Angie Canning
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Polar
Bear Trip
In October
last year our family went to Svalbard, Spitzbergen in the very North of Norway,
to a small place called Longyearbyen. There are flights from Oslo to Tromso then
a connection to Longyearbyen. Total flight time is about 4 hours.
There are a few hotels here: the SAS Polar
Hotel, Spitsbergen Hotel (Rica) and Hotel Basecamp Spitsbergen. There are also
a few shops (duty free) and a lovely pub, which serves great food at good
prices.
At this time of year it is always dark, which was quite a strange experience.
It's also very cold with temperatures around -20 degrees.
We went on a polar night walk which saw our family plus a few others heading off
into the darkness with headlamps! The guides were very informative and the
children loved the fact that they were armed with rifles in case of polar
bears! Towards the end of the walk we were lucky enough to see the Northern
lights, which were fantastic.
Other tourist activities that you can book
include dog sledding, visits to the coalmines, snow mobiling and tours of the ice
caves. You need to book ahead and plan what you are going to do, as you not
allowed to leave the town without a guide because of the ice bears!
As we sat
eating breakfast we could watch reindeer outside the hotel. This was truly a
winter holiday experience.
Jo Bush
Websites for further information:
www.spitsbergentravel.com
www.basecampexplorer.com
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Quick Cross Country Ski Wax Tips
There are two types of cross-country ski wax: glide wax for down hills and kick wax for up hills. Glide wax is applied about once per month. If you ski quite often then you will have to wax more often. This wax is also applied to downhill skis and snowboards. Most sports shops will apply glide wax for you for a small fee.
Kick
wax needs to match the snow temperature and current snow conditions. Kick wax
is the somewhat sticky wax that is applied to the middle of the ski that doesn’t
touch the ground when you are just standing on them. This allows the glide wax
to take you down the hill easily. When you are stepping down hard on your skis
as in climbing up hills, the ski flexes and the sticky, kick wax comes in
contact with the snow and helps you up the hill. You choose your wax based on
temperature, moisture content of the snow and how old or transformed the snow
is. Rub the wax on the skis over your wax pocket, use a cork to rub it in to
make it very smooth. Repeat with another layer o ax and corking.
‘No klister before Easter’ is a saying for Norwegian skiers. Klister is a typical spring wax for very transformed snow, or snow that has been repeatedly melted and frozen. If the snow really calls for klister then you need to apply it to your skis. The experts will use klister in a tube, heat it up with a blow torch and smooth it out. I personally avoid that at all costs. I buy klister in a can. Swix makes a great universal klister that can be sprayed on. Let it harden a few minutes on the skis and then top with normal kick wax that matches the temperature of the snow. Happy touring!
Betsy Eisenhower
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Sleigh Ride in Sylling
On the recommendation of my huband’s secretary we took our two children and 2 guests on a magical sleigh ride on Saturday 24 January. Our sleigh ride began at Jutlien Farm, which is situated on the outskirts of Sylling – about 40 mins drive from our home in Høvik.
We arrived at the previously agreed time of 5 o’clock in the evening and were greeted by our friendly sleigh driver who soon had us settled into the sleigh snuggled up on fur skins with blankets to keep out the cold. We were given torches and off we set on a 2 km ride through the meadows and trees to the local church. Here we were told some of the local folk stories of the area.
On the way back we stopped at the” Gapahukens” (a forest shelter built of pine branches) and met Mother Troll. She greeted us warmly by the roaring log fire and gave us hot blackcurrant to drink.
The sleigh trip took about an hour and when we got back to Jutlien Farm we were invited into Eldstua, which is a very large room, lit by a hundred candles with a huge open fireplace radiating warmth and welcome. Our traditional food was served on tables made from huge elms.
Our hostess (the fiancée of our sleigh driver) was very welcoming and friendly and served us with spice cakes, freshly made small pancakes called “svelers” and fresh coffee brewed on the open fire. Also available were other soft drinks. In the corner of the room was a bed covered with bear and wolf skins and after we had eaten as much as we could eat our son was treated to a bedtime Norwegian story told in English.
Also on display are local craft works such as silver jewellery, ceramics and woodcarvings that can be purchased.
You can make bookings by telephoning: 32 84 99 99 or emailing: erholest@frisurf.no. The website address is: www.holminfjordhester.no
Not a cheap evening out but one to be remembered and cherished.
Lyn Campbell
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Trip to the Ice Hotel
Just before
Christmas we travelled deep within the Artic Circle to the north of Sweden to
spend two nights/three days at the Ice Hotel. The entire hotel is made of ice
and packed snow. Each room/suite is individually designed and created by a
different ice sculptor. You sleep on beds carved out of ice covered with
reindeer skins. In addition there is the “Absolut Vodka Bar” where you are
served drinks in glasses made of ice, listening to live music played on life
sized musical instruments made of snow. There is also a chapel and a theatre
that performs operas and plays. Alongside the hotel are warm amenities;
restaurant, reception, shop etc.
Upon arrival the outside temperature was minus 28 and our first activity was
dog-sledding. All five of us sat on one sledge and were pulled through a winter
wonderland by a team of 14 dogs driven by a guide standing behind us. When we
set off it was twilight but by the time we returned in was completely dark at
3.30 pm. We chose to spend our first night in relative luxury in a cabin – much
like the small ski cabins we are used to here – very cosy and warm when the
temperature drops to minus 35. The following day we explored the local village;
went sledging and walking. That night we set off on a snow-mobile adventure to
search for the aurora borealis – (northern lights). This was fantastic. We
were very lucky indeed to have a magnificent clear night and the lights danced
for us across the entire sky for much of it - truly spectacular. We returned to
the hotel at about 10 pm were given our thermal sleeping bags and shown to our
room inside the ice hotel. All five of us managed a good night’s sleep at minus
6.
It was a marvelous trip and something we shall remember for a long time to come.
Buffie Wilson
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What can you do in Oslo in Spring/Summer?
Since I grew up in Oslo I can tell you about a few of the things you can do in the spring/summer.
Take your bike on the train from Oslo Central station up to Stryken. From here you can cycle directly to Oslo or Sørkedalen in half a day or you can stay overnight somewhere in the wilderness north of Oslo. Lot’s of small lakes to camp by, but you need a permit to fish in the lakes. Don’t let the first very steep hill discourage you.
You find ferries leaving from Vippetangen (the old grain silo opposite Aker Brygge) to Hovedøya (you will find the ruins of an old monastery that used to host Franciscan monks here)and Langøyene. Both these islands have great areas for sunbathing and swimming. There are also big lawns for the kids to run around on. The other islands (e.g. Bleikøya) have summer cottages on them and you are better off on the above-mentioned islands.
Remember that the water temperature in the Oslo fjord easily reaches a comfortable temperature around 20-23 degrees and the current around these islands makes sure that the water is clean and safe to swim in. Hard to believe when you can see the center of town from the beach.
You
can also cycle or take a bus out along Mosseveien and stop at Ulvøya
(nice south facing beach with a diving board), Katten (beach along the road),
Hverven bukta (follow the road along the coast, not on the motorway that
starts, up the hill and past the camping, or take the next right and follow the
twisty road to Ingerierstrand (nice sandy beach with a diving board and a
small café). These are my favorite beaches on the east side of Oslo and I am
still exploring the ones on the West. Might tell you about them next year, but I
can tell you that they all have parking problems and that you are better of
taking the bus or jump on your bike if it is a nice and sunny day.
The
peninsula facing Oslo is called Nesodden and you can take you bike on the
ferry out there and enjoy endless woods, beaches (the Norwegian kind with rocks
rather that sand), and cycle paths stretches all the way to the border with the
next kommune (4 Norwegian miles). Ferries also leave from Lysaker and Wollen in
Asker at peak times.
The
Norwegian Museum of Science and Technology
is a great place for the children on a rainy day or any day. They have
activities like “Build your own Lego Robot” and a great walk around touch and
feel area for kids. Check it out
www.tekniskmuseum.no
Do you want to join an organized roller blade tour? Check out www.rollers.no
Frognerbadet is a great place to swim on a sunny day. It is located north in the Frogner park. They have slides and 1,3,5,7 and 10-meter diving boards. There is one pool for the very small ones with a great little soft slide. Open from mid-May to mid-August
Tusenfryd
is Norway’s biggest amusement park and it is already opened this year. Info in
English at
www.tusenfryd.no
Visit the Norwegian Botanical Gardens at Tøyen. Only 3 stops from the center of town to Tøyen, and 3 minutes walk north from the station. On 5th June they are having a plant sale and you might pick up something exotic and rare.
I finally found a
big indoor play area, not in Oslo but in Lillestrøm.
It’s
called Hoppe Loppe Land :
Adr. Leiraveien 12, 2000
Lillestrøm
Phone 63 81 16 73 Mobile 91 13 23 54
www.hoppeloppeland.no
Other useful web sites:
http://www.ofa.no/ (fishing)
http://www.friluftsetaten.oslo.kommune.no/badeinfo/ Beach Info (temp. etc)
http://www.aktivioslo.no What’s on in Oslo (might be in English soon)
HAVE A GREAT SUMMER!
Christiane Morrison
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What not to wear - in winter
Kindly submitted by Johanna Leahy
In October 2004, Johanna C. Leahy arrived in Oslo from postings in Singapore and the Philippines. Soon after her arrival she wrote an article for the Weekly Telegraph, explaining the challenge of dressing for a colder climate.
Norwegians say that "there's no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing". The problem is that their concept of bad clothing and mine are two very different things.
I love clothes. Not just wearing them, but looking at them, reading about them, thinking about them, buying them. Since adolescence, I have put a lot of effort into trying to look effortlessly chic.
But having just moved to Norway, I'm starting to wonder if my love affair with dressing stylishly is about to end prematurely. It's not that I've finally bankrupted us with my over-indulgence in fashion; it's the dreadful practicality of dressing in a cold climate.
After more than five years in South East Asia, I tried to arrive in Oslo prepared for colder weather and Norwegian prices; I brought several long-sleeved sweaters and jeans from the Philippines and a beautiful off-white faux fur coat from home in Ireland.
I take as much care over choosing outfits for my young daughters as I do for myself, so I also lugged along a suitcase of trendy winter clothes for them, including shoes to replace the sandals they have lived in since they learned to toddle (when not barefoot).
However, despite my best intentions, I arrived ill-equipped. It's not that I didn't know that it was going to be cold here but when you've got to the stage of thinking that 30°c is cool enough to be refreshing, the concept of what cold really feels like can be hard to grasp until you are actually shivering.
Within weeks of our arrival it snowed and I was faced with the challenge of keeping warm without losing all sense of style or my balance on icy paths. Seeking clues on what's de rigueur among Oslo's fashionistas, I paid close attention to what was worn on the streets. It seemed that predominantly ugly boots, bulky jackets and unflattering head gear, all ill-matched, were the attire of choice for many.
After conceding that there's nothing elegant about landing on one's bum when walking down the street, I invested in a pair of waterproof, fleece-lined boots which give me a footprint the size of Bigfoot and the gait of a farmer. I've even resorted to long johns when in the park with my kids.
I'm adjusting to wearing several layers under my bulky jacket, while trying to avoid the stuffed turkey look, and I've learned to appreciate that hats can have their advantages on bad hair days.
However, I regret that off-white coat which seemed so glamorous when I bought it; against the pure white of new snow it looks, well, very off, like sludge.
Re-dressing the children has been easier. Kids all over Norway seem to live in body suits that are fleece-lined and waterproof from head to heel. I've also noticed some adults wearing them but vow that I will risk hypothermia rather than commit that fashion faux pas.
Even before it started to snow, it became blatantly obvious that my kids' shoes were inadequate for this climate. So, off I trooped to the shoe store where I asked bemused sales people what kids are meant to wear and why. I paid the price of two year's worth of footwear in Asia for two pairs of fleece-lined wellies to match the body suits, sceptical that such extravagance was really necessary, and hoping that their cosy feet wouldn't grow out of them before Spring. It didn't end there.
A week later I was back at the store looking for a warmer, non-rubber boot – apparently the wellies are only good for temperatures above -4°c. To top it all off, the cute hats, scarves and gloves my children received as gifts before we came here have now been consigned to the wardrobe of Norway's best dressed snowmen.
Instead
the children need serious fleece-lined wool headgear with flaps to cover their
ears and thermal waterproof gloves. With the recent purchase of wool tights,
socks and thermal underwear, I'm hoping their winter wardrobe is complete and
dare not ask if any more will be required.
They now look like a cross between a pair of Eskimos and cuddly bears in cerise-coloured suits; it's a look that works on toddlers but shouldn't even be attempted by adults.
Not only are our pockets considerably emptier now, getting the children dressed to go outdoors has turned into a major operation, making me wonder if it's worth the time and effort involved.
I try not to scream with frustration but it's hard when, until recently, going out meant slipping a summer dress over each of their heads and spraying them with sun screen and mosquito repellent. At least we don't have to worry about bugs here I suppose.
I've also discovered the inconvenience of changing a child's nappy when out shopping; extricating my two-year-old from her body suit and undergarments in a cramped toilet cubicle certainly gets me hot under the collar. Some days I think hibernation sounds like an excellent idea but Norwegians wouldn't tolerate such wimpy behaviour.
Normally all this grim practicality and strained nerves would send me out for a dose of retail therapy like a shot. Sure the stores stock rails of fashionable winter clothes just like in the UK but I assume they're for women who drive to work in well-heated offices in the city, not mothers, however style-conscious, who have to shovel snow, drive kids down an icy hill to school every morning, and stand outdoors supervising play while trying to convey excitement at their dramatic change of surroundings and climate.
Even I draw the line at trying to look chic while sitting at home in front of my computer with the heat turned up full blast. I hope I'll grow more resistant to the cold. Maybe I'll learn to walk on ice in stilettos. Above all, I hope that my passion for fashion survives my first winter in Norway as I come to the conclusion that it's impossible to wear sensible outer clothing and still look elegant, off-piste at least.
In the meantime, I dream of next summer when, I hope, good weather will give my love affair with good clothes a new lease of life.
Postscript:
Heading into my second Norwegian winter I am still less than enthusiastic about
what I’ll wear between now and May. I have yet to master heels on ice and
suspect I may die, or at least break an ankle, trying. Perhaps my epitaph will
read “she died as she lived - cold but stylish”!
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WHAT TO DO WITH THE CHILDREN?…….
TRY THE JINGLE BELLS EXPERIENCE ! !
When the children had a day off from school a couple of weeks ago we were looking for an activity for them in the daytime. Luckily our good friend Reidun suggested a sleigh ride at the Elveli stables. This is in a beautiful area of forest 10 minutes drive past Bogstad on the Sorkedalsveien road and then a right turn to Elveli. By then you are really out in the countryside and the roads become simple tracks. There is parking before the stables for walking and cross country skiing and we will revisit this area as it is so beautiful.
When we left our house that morning it was raining and low cloud – not very inspiring. Amazingly, when we got to Elveli the cloud had lifted and it was lightly snowing – enough for the children to tumble out of the car and start a snowball fight! As the snow was very light our sleigh ride was in a farm wagon but they do change over to sleighs with runners in the deeper snow.
We piled onto the cart and set off into the forest with the sleigh bell ringing away – and you have to sing don’t you? Our trip was for half an hour and although we would have loved to stay longer, we were getting pretty cold by the end of the trip. It is essential to wear warm outfits, gloves and hats and I would recommend taking a hot drink in the car to warm up when you get back.
We had a great time and look forward to another sleigh ride in the deeper snow.
You can also book horse riding at the center and you can go on a Moose and Deer “hunt” with a guide. Our trip cost 150 nok per person as it was pre season. The usual cost is 250 nok per person but I would suggest you try and negotiate depending on how many of you are going.Lesley
Happy Sleighing!!!!
Lesley Fuller
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